Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Bjorn Thorn-Anderson cruising the lower section.
Description
This large chimney is clean climbing with two distinct cruxes. Both cruxes are at bulges and are followed by a widening of the chimney where protection is scarce without crawling deep into the chimney. Throughout most of the climb there are good face holds, but above the last bulge, the face holds get scarce and chimney technique is the best way to go.
Location
The large chimney to the right of Meanderthon. A huge chock stone is visible near the top, as are the poot slings underneath this chock.
Protection
Small gear works for the starting cracks. An old 3/8" bolt with a home-made hanger is at the first crux and can be backed up with small gear. The next bulge takes a large cam, and is the last practical protection until the anchors. anchors are 2 good 3/8" bolts connected with slings and a beefy rap-ring.
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