Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
BETA PHOTO: Meanderthon is the line up the middle. The red-lin...
Description
Don't be fooled by the bolts on this long slabby climb, it is not a sport climb. It is a long, mentally challenging climb around lichen covered bulges while dodging flaky sections of rock. Moving left after the second bolt is on the scariest rock and takes the most concentration. The rest feels pretty solid, but the distance between protection points will keep you focused. A more direct vartiation is to go up and left after the first bolt, and then follow the ramps up to the third bolt. A few marginal tri-cam placements could break-up this run-out, but a cool head is best.
Location
Located around the corner (east) of Lichen Fun Slide - Left. On the left side of the slab is a chimney system with poot slings at the top under a large chock stone. To the right is a lichen filled chute. Start near the chimney system and follow the easy ramp up and right. At the top of the ramp is the intermediary belay ledge. From here, climb directly up to a bolt before heading left into some bulges. find/clip the last bolt and head for the top along the path of least resistance/best rock.
Protection
3 good 3/8" bolts, widely spaced. There is a good piton and gear placements on the starting ramp. The second bolt is 15' above a belay ledge which can be used to top-rope the lower section, or climbs to the right. Above the third bolt are a few marginal placements of small TCUs or tri-cams. Long runners are essential unless you have a fondness for rope-drag. A good two bolt anchor exists at the top. descen by a two-rope rappel, or two single rope rappekls using the intermediary belay ledge.
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