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Rotten Reality 

5.10+

   

FA: FFA Edmund Ward
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 134 page views

Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Apr 29, 2006


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Evaluating the degree of "Rotten-ness" on Rotten R...


Description 

This steep diagonal crack provides lots of interesting climbing; Off-width technique, finger-to-fist size jams, big face holds and awkward rest stances make it an interesting and committing lead. Midway up is a bolt, which is where most people end the climb. The upper section is "grunty".


Location 

At the far eastern end of La Cueva is a grotto area. Rotten Reality is the obvious right tending crack.


Protection 

2 3/8" bolts protect up to the crack. The crack has good gear placements if you hunt for them, but there is also a lot of flaring and crumbly rock which should be avoided. The mid-point bolt is a 3/8" and there are two hangerless 1/4" bolts here as well. From the top, one can walk north and do a ~100' rappel from the route to the right called "Banana Splits".



Photos of Rotten Reality Slideshow Add Photo
past the little start crux. first bolt at the feet. second a little higher than my head.

BETA PHOTO: past the little start crux. first bolt at the feet...