This climb is located 100' east of the Bolted Chimney route. It climbs a discontinuous crack system up a steep face. The crux is encountered quickly and finding the hidden face holds helps greatly.
Protection
Small gear. Bolt anchors with chain link or cold-shunts.
By Aaron Hobson Administrator From: Las Cruces, NM Feb 2, 2006
Additional bolt anchors are located at the top of the upper chimney section on the left side. There is also a two bolt anchor at the very top of the left hand tower, although what these anchors are used for is a mystery to me.
By Aaron Hobson Administrator From: Las Cruces, NM May 28, 2006
Climbed this route a second time and it felt much easier. knowing the beta for gear and holds can save a lot of effort. I'm curious if anyone feels it should be down-graded? On my second ascent, I felt this route could be rated a 5.9+, but without beta it can be much harder.
I think a 5.10 is a good rating. What a fun route! And those top bolts are a mystery to me too...unless someone can find a route up that mess right below them without taking out your belayer with rock.
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