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Castle Wall 

Castle Wall 

5.9

   
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FA: 
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 30 feet
Views: 30 page views

Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Dec 8, 2007


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Myself back-cleaning the route.


Description 

2 bolts provide a top-rope anchor for the left side of the slab. To reach these bolts though, one must lead up the crack/corner to the left. The climbing isn't hard, maybe 5.7, but the rock quality is definitely suspect. There are a number of thin cracks which will take nuts and small cams, but test them out carefully, as some appear fragile.

Once the anchor is reached, top-roping the slab is quite enjoyable. The divots provide interesting hand/foot holds, and there are even some deep huecos scattered about on the route.

Supposedly, one can finish up to the top, but it looks sketchy. The one account I've found (see http://vcrux.com/penablancathegarden.aspx) describes it as "adventure climbing".


Location 

Left side of the prominent slab.


Protection 

Small cams or nuts can protect the climb to reach the anchors. the anchors are two solid looking 3/8" bolts. One of them has a locking carabiner (that no longer can be unlocked) attached to it.



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By Lowell
From: El Paso, Texas
Dec 12, 2007

Castle Crack 5.9
To finish the route from the chains. Continue traversing right along the crack system. The crack comes to a junction where you eventually start your way up to the top over a small blunt roof. This is where serveral variations exist. The rock tends to get better and better the further you get.