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Bishops Cap/Pena Blanca

Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Feb 28, 2006
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, George Perkins
Latitude: 32.2239  Longitude: -106.5979 
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Description 

In the shadow of Hueco Tanks lies this lesser known and lesser quality area. Pena Blanca is a sprawling rock playground on the southern foot of the Organ mountains. There are scores of established boulder problems and potential for more. Much of the rock is of poor quality which keeps the area relatively free from the crowds seen at Hueco.

A few climbing resources exist but nothing has been published. Visit http://huecotanks.com/BCDetail.htm for more descriptions of the area. Also check out another developing e-guide at http://vcrux.com/penablanca.aspx (see comment by Lowell below).

There are a handful of short sport and trad routes, as well as top-rope problems that merit a visit. But what Pena Blanca has most of is bouldering, and it is through bouldering that this area will get known.

The area is currently designated as Wilderness Study Area by the BLM which restricts off-roading activities. Petroglyphs are found here and if you find some refrain from climbing near them.


Getting There 

When driving between Las Cruces and El Paso on I-10, Pena Blanca is clearly visible to the east. Take the Mesquite exit and head east. The paved road takes you buy a landfill and liquid waste site, then turns to a dirt road. When you are approximately due south of the rocks there are rough roads that lead to the different climbing spots. A 4WD vehicle is required to reach some of the parking areas.


Resources 

There is a collection of rough maps with names/difficulties of routes and problems at Pena Blanca. Contact Aaron Hobson (or see the above link and browse)to get them sent to you. They are by no means complete, and only give the user an idea of the large amount of climbing that occurs here.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Bishops Cap/Pena Blanca:
Speak in English   5.9+     TR, 50 feet   The Garden : El Diablo
El Diablo   5.11-     TR, 50 feet   The Garden : El Diablo
Browse More Classics in Bishops Cap/Pena Blanca

Comments on Bishops Cap/Pena Blanca Add Comment
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By Aaron Hobson
Administrator
From: Las Cruces, NM
Feb 28, 2006

Once again I am having naming issues. I have some documents that someone put together about route names and which formation they are on (see the above link). However, I don't have specific information as to what the routes look like, where they are located etc... The problem I am faced with then is trying to match the names I have with the actual routes.

If you see that a route is named wrong SAY SOMETHING. Hopefully this site can be used to bring some of this information together.

By Lowell
From: El Paso, Texas USA
Nov 24, 2006

The guidebook is available at the NMSU Climbing Gym/Shop. You can also get the guide directly from the publisher CLICK HERE