Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
A fun, well-protected lead up to one of the biggest roofs at Mentmore. The climb swings around and climbs the right edge of the roof to the top. The movement is nice, with a neat diversity of unusual holds all just where you want them. The crux is certainly between the 1st and 2nd bolts; the rest of the route is mid-5.10 at most. A good first 5.11a lead. However, the rock at the top, especially under the roof, is really loose and sandy. Climb carefully, don't knock rocks onto your belayer or rip holds off...and don't fall onto the 5th bolt. It looks very suspect. Bring looong slings for the anchor to extend the rope over the lip for lowering or toproping.
Location
Near the left end of the Slab Wall, underneath a large, prominent roof. This is the leftmost route before reaching the deep chimney that separates the Slab Wall from the Jabba the Hut area.
Protection
7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Rap off (maybe), top out and walk off the backside towards the railroad tracks, or lower off and collect your anchor slings later. Only lower off if you have LONG slings that extend the anchor beyond the lip of the roof. There are already big grooves worn in the rock from running ropes over the lip.
(02) Slab Wall
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