(11) Piled High 

FA:  Michael LaPlante Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 45 feet Views: 18 page views Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Jun 19, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This route starts with a fun, well protected crux. Pull out from under the roof on underclings, jugs, and a bomber handjam. Unfortunately, the last 30 feet of the route has little to recommend it. Easy (5.7ish) climbing on sandy, suspect rock with little or no protection, and the possibility of a groundfall from near the top of the cliff. Climb this one only if you're a completist. Otherwise, just boulder the start with a pad and a spotter.

Location 

Climb the leftmost crack that exits out from under the huge roof. Smegma Deluxe is the boltline immediately to the left.

Protection 

All trad gear for this one, and no bolted anchor at the top. Take a few small cams to stuff in under the roof (don't forget to sling them long), and a few medium/small nuts for the upper section. Don't take much, you won't be able to use it.