(01) Shin of My Skin 

FA:  Scott Halliday Type:  Sport, TR Consensus:  5.10d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 40 feet Views: 16 page views Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Apr 25, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

A decent route, and the only line on the Original Side bolted by Scott Halliday, who is the chief architect of the New Side. The start is HARD, requiring delicate, powerful moves using pockets on an otherwise smooth face. The arete itself, right of the bolt, is on-route but around the corner is not. You may want to stick-clip the first bolt, or stem across using the boulder to clip it, before launching out on the route. Get established on the lower-angle terrain below the prominent overhang, make a TOUGH clip at the 4th bolt, and then pull the roof. Yes, you'll probably have to trust those delicate-seeming flakes of varnish. Tough route, and maybe slightly sandbagged due to the difficulty of the start.

TRing is tough on this one because of the overhang and the run of the rope, the boulder behind, and the generally cramped quarters.

Location 

Look for a boltline tucked between Jabba the Hutt on the left and a large chimney on the right. The start is directly behind a largish boulder.
Lower off, or walk off.

Protection 

4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.