(05) Duuuude! 

FA:  Michael LaPlante Type:  Sport, TR Consensus:  5.10d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 45 feet Views: 24 page views Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Apr 25, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

A really enjoyable route (especially the lower half) that sees almost no traffic at all. Climb up along the incipient seam on tough sidepulls and sloping crimps (crux) to gain horizontal rails. Make a TOUGH 3rd clip (don't blow it or you'll probably deck), then pull onto the ledge. Pull the roof above you (which is easier than it looks), make sure not miss the last clip above the roof, and finish to the anchors. The start is the best part, with great balancy moves. Either follow the crack and move right to the first bolt, or start on the right and move up and left to the bolt. Both starts are roughly equivalent difficulty and quality.

Location 

Look for a steep, THIN crack up the wall next to the Leaning Slab and Jabba the Hutt. It is distinguished by a big ledge halfway up and a big overhang above that. Lower off, walk off, or rap. For a quick descent, it is fairly easy to scramble down the chimney to the right of the route.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor is set well back from the lip (10 feet?), so bring long slings if you want to TR.