(09) Phalanx 

FA:  Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 40 feet Views: 25 page views Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

Possibly the best trad line at Mentmore, Phalanx is the obvious, eye-catching splitter at the far right (east) end of the Health Wall. While face holds are available, knowing how to finger jam will really help you out on this one. Be careful though, some of us with mid-sized fingers need to resort to ringlocks... The crack takes good pro, and the fall is generally clean, so this is a good climb to push your leading grade on. Also easy to toprope, and excellent for practicing technique. If only it was longer...

Location 

The clean, splitter finger crack right between the obvious "Why Crack" and the equally obvious big overhang, down near the right end of the Health Wall. Rap or lower off, or walk off to the right.

Protection 

Trad gear to a 2-bolt anchor. The crack is small, so bring medium nuts and small cams to about 1 inch.