Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
An excellent, sustained lead. Climb the juggy, overhung right side of the prominent arete. The rock is good, the clipping stances are good, the falls are clean... just pull until you pop. This climb gets less traffic than it otherwise might because it must be led: you cannot reach the anchors from the clifftop.
Location
Look for the prominent, steep arete at the left (west) end of the Bivi wall. Rap off this one: you won't want to have to get your slings back if you lower off.
Protection
6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. The anchor is pretty far back from the edge: bring long slings if you want to TR after leading it.