Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Alex midway up TCT. Photo by Kim Caovan
Description
A nice crack with great movement, TCT is the hardest trad lead at Mentmore to date, and one of the best. Only a discontinuous start and a bit of sandy rock at the base keep it from being a four-star route. Scramble up some boulders at the base of the crack to reach the small roof. Strenuous moves get you over the roof, and a combination of face climbing and finger locks takes you to the top. This route can be climbed almost entirely as a crack climb, or with a great deal of face climbing, but at least some jamming skills are probably necessary.
The crack is deep and varnished on the inside, so the gear is good. However, the soft rock at Mentmore means that long falls are NOT a good idea. Protection every body length is a good goal to shoot for.
Be aware that after heavy rain storms, some sand may have been washed into the crack. It's not a major problem, but if no one has climbed the route in a while (likely to be the case at Mentmore), it may be worthwhile to brush the crack out on a toprope before leading it.
Location
The attractive, jagged finger crack left of Stolen Dreams, near the right end of the Wall of Dreams, and just left of an obvious pour-off. The location is also marked, as unnamed "Crack- #14", on the black+white beta map photo available on the New Side front page.
The anchor is bolted, but cannot be rappelled from. To get down, either rap off Stolen Dreams' anchor (just to the left of the topout) or take the long walk up and left to get down off the cliffs.
Protection
Trad gear from 0.5" to 1". Nuts work, but cams are better. A double set is plenty. The crack is quite deep, so four-cam units are recommended to get as much surface contact with the rock as possible. Two-bolt anchor at the top.
(03) Wall of Dreams
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