(03) Learning to Lead Crack 

FA:  ? Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.6 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 40 feet Views: 16 page views Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Nov 5, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

This crack isn't very diverting for an experienced climber, as it's very low-angle on HUGE face holds (no jamming required). But it's perfect for a first trad lead. The rock is good for Mentmore, being varnished inside the crack, there are endless hands-free stances to fiddle nuts into the crack, and it's short. Run it out or sew it up, whatever you feel comfortable with.

Location 

The obvious, right-leaning crack that splits the Open Face Wall from top to bottom.

Protection 

A small selection of trad gear up to about 2 inches ought to be fine. There is a 2-bolt anchor at the top.