Start in a corner just right of Climb #19, the lightning bolt shaped finger crack. Move up the corner that takes almost no pro and make a few face moves to the right. Brass nuts provide at least psychological protection. An awkward mantle move above this is also "protected" with RPs and other tiny nuts in placements that are difficult to visually inspect from the stance they're placed from, and this small gear is all that is between you and a 20' ground fall followed by a tumble down into the Sununu Place. [The second time I led this I placed a small cam in the lightning bolt crack out left from a high stem, then made the traverse right a little higher. I trusted this piece better than the tiny nuts the first time around, but the climbing just as hard.] Beyond the mantle, step into a right-facing corner that overhangs above you with a weird shaped offwidth crack in the back. This is followed by another strange mantle onto a horizontal crack, and then a hand crack through a wild roof with excellent pro.
This is a fun climb that is overlooked in my opinion, with a few sections with unusual movement. The start is scary as far as the pro goes when you're leading, and thus is not recommended for sketchy 5.9 leaders. As a TR, I would guess this climb would be really fun.
Location
Near the right end of the ONP; this is the crack through the roof just left of Berserker. Just right of the lightning bolt finger crack.
Protection
Brassies and micro-nuts up to a #3 camalot. Build your own anchor at the top.
Old New Place
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