Unnamed, right face 

FA:  Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.6 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 30 feet Views: 52 page views Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Aug 18, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Unnamed face, right, 5.6, Tortilla Flats, White Ro...

Description 

Compared to the Left face of this beginner slab, this is a less enjoyable climb on the right side of the slab. Infrequent gear-placement opportunities with awkward stances, possibly loose holds, devious move sequences partially dictated by the need to avoid a fat cactus at mid-route, and the possibility of a ledge fall, all add up to make this a less-than-stellar lead. Probably OK for a beginner toprope, though.

The on-line guide's topo shows this line as a "5.6 friction" route. Beverly (2006:204) notes this climb as #2, one of a "pair of friction slab climbs." Neither source provides a photo of the route. And, this isn't really so much of a strict friction climb, as it is a face climb with a few frictiony feet. But, any friction is uncommon around White Rock.

Location 

One of the the northernmost (leftmost) climbs at the cliff, on the easy slab face to the left of the Tortilla Slab. This line ascends on the right side of the fat little cactus in the middle of the face.
Although the online guide's topo implies that one could toprope both the right and left climbs from a single toprope anchor in the center of the face, that would result in your rope draping over the cliff-dwelling cactus, with spiny results. Probably better to TR the L and R faces separately.

Protection 

Unlike the Left face this route doesn't provide many good gear placements OR decent stances from which to fiddle around. Small stuff, mainly: I managed to wiggle in three tiny cams (two Zero's and a blue TCU) and a wobbly pink tri-cam. Gear or slung boulders will work at the top (or even sling trees for a TR anchor).