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New New Place
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(03) Crap On 
(04) Unnamed 
(05) Beginner's 
(07) Flare 
(09) Sharon's Lead 
(10) Half Moons (aka Clockwork) 
(12) Rumsey's Lead 
(13) Batshit Crack 
(14) Pure Thoughts 
(15) Thumb Action 
(16) Phone Booth 
(17) Have a Nice Day Yucca 
(18) Twin Cracks 
(19) Hard Crack 

(13) Batshit Crack 

5.10b

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 65 feet
Views: 66 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008


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Description 

Clearly the best line at the NNP, Batshit Crack is the most continuously sustained crack here, don't be discouraged by the name- it's nowhere near as shitfilled as some at WR. It begins as moves requiring hand jams to a short section moving into a body-size flare that has less than ideal protection. Above, a steep hand crack section is probably the well-protected crux. 10-15' of OW finishes the climb.

Liebacking is a good substitute for technique on this climb.


Location 

Batshit Crack is the obvious crack in the left-facing corner at the tallest central part of the New New Place.


Protection 

1 set cams up to a #4 camalot. Save some gear for an anchor.