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The Playground
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Barlow's Buttress 
Battle of the Bulge 
Beginner's Hand Jam 
Black Wall 
Blow Hole 
Cactus Climb 
Flying A 
Mr. Foster's Lead 
Original Horak Route 
T2 Flake 
Texas 
Tree Climb 
Unnamed (crack left of Blow Hole) 
Unnamed (crack right of Flying A) 
Unnamed (easy black roof slot crack) 
Unnamed (thin flake crack) 
Unrelenting Nines 
Upper Left Roof 
Zander Zigzag 

Unnamed (easy black roof slot crack) 

5.10a

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 21 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Aug 12, 2008


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Description 

The low big black roof is the most obvious feature at the Playground. The easiest passage through this feature is this unnamed climb, which passes through an A shaped slot in the roof (the 2nd from the left end of the roof); however, this climb sees little traffic. If the grunge was cleaned up by more traffic, this would be a pretty good climb.

A few tricky moves down low reach a rest below the roof. Chimney and stem your way through the black roof, which is a fun and intriguing crux. Above, you can angle to the left and head up steep juggy cracks, or angle to the right and head up easy juggy cracks. Expect dirtiness and loose rubble on either variation.


Location 

The low big black roof about 20' up is the most obvious feature at the Playground and is right in the middle of it. The easiest passage through this feature is the 2nd crack going through this, near the left end of the roof, through an A shaped slot.

This is #18 in Jemez Rock, and #17 in the online route list


Protection 

1 each cams and nuts. Save some gear to build an anchor at the top.