Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Barlow's Buttress is the center crack approaching the high roofs near the right side of the Playground. The cruxes are at the beginning and end of the climb. A tricky and unprotected boulder problem just off the ground lets one get a hand-size cam in a slot just after the hard part, and pull on a chockstone through the first crux. Being tall probably helps. 5.8 cracks up to the big roof (this is the next crack system to the right of Upper Left Roof, at this point). A second crux turns the highest roof to the righthand side- this is protectable with smallish nuts and some cams under the roof but is still fairly awkward. One may also be able to exit by the center roof crack up high? Other than the tricky start (which isn't too high off the deck), good pro the whole way. Jemez Rock calls this 5.11a. Chen/Wehner online guide sandbags us with a 5.9+ grade. I don't know what RC:NM says. (My opinion: 10ish.. It's not about numbers.. it's got good pro.. go climb.)
Location
This climb is the center line below the high roofs near the right side of the Playground, on the face to the right of Beginner's Hand Jam and Upper Left Roof.
Protection
1 set cams to 3", and nuts. Save some gear to build an anchor. Like most at the Playground, the climb ends on the big ledge 20' below the clifftop, so anchoring off trees is not the best option.
The Playground
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