Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
An enjoyable finger crack in a shallow dihedral leads to a steep, bulging finish that ends up being easier and more fun than it looks from below. Scramble five feet up onto the good ledge and follow the nice finger crack and pockets on the walls up to rock of lesser, but still OK, quality just below the bulge. Find some nice big holds below and above the bulge and pull up over it into good rock and a nice semi-laybacking section to the shared anchors with Fat Boys Don't Fly.
Location
The route is the obvious finger crack just left of Fat Boys Don't Fly. It would be route number 22 in the BTONP right-side routes photo.
Protection
A standard set of nuts and small to medium cams up to 1". The Jemez Rock book description states pro up to 2" but I never found anything larger than the .75 camalot.