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Going for the flash of Wailing Banshees (didn't ge...
Description
A very sweet arete route just right of "Adam Ant". Nice, positive pockets on both sides of the arete serve up great hands while little edges and points on the arete give it up for the feet. Be sure to look on both sides of the arete for the pockets. A small crux comes above the second bolt trying to get to the great ledge and then another crux heading to the chains on a hold that looks good from below but is not quite as positive as the lower holds.
4 bolts to shared chain anchors with "Adam Ant". The first bolt is high up the climbing to that point isn't too difficult and there's a good clip hold.
By Scott Beguin From: Los Alamos, NM Nov 8, 2007 rating: 5.11b
A bit of history: this route was first attempted with gear placements before there was consensus to bolt it, and that was before any anchors were put in. Might I note that two of the lead bolts could stand to be replaced(2nd and 3rd). You wouldn't really want to air on them. Hanging on them seemed ok.
Awesome arete climbing. Difficult onsight from the last bolt to the anchors, but unless you're under 5'8", you shouldn't have to use any less-than-sinker pockets. Full credit stars.
I'm 210 lbs (I'm not fat! I'm big-boned!) and I aired onto the third bolt...and although it's kinda crooked, it actually feels very solid - certainly no reason to avoid this route IMO. I do agree though that it wouldn't hurt to replace it. As for getting to the (high) first bolt: it's easy to get to if you come in from the big ledge on the left - falling while trying to make this clip could get pretty ugly.
Below The Old New Place
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