Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Climb blocks to a finger crack on a right-leaning ramp, place good pro and mantle onto a pedestal (1st crux). Follow a 5.8 handcrack up to the obvious left-leaning flake. Undercling/lieback out left on this flake to the top- the 2nd crux (A popular toprope variation is to climb the crimpy face and avoid using the flake).
A Direct Start variation (#11 in the photo) reaches the pedestal from the prow or from the right side- it's .10a with pro that's better than it looks from the ground.
Location
This climb is in the middle of the ONP, and is route 10 in Jason's ONP photo The big left trending undercling flake up high is obvious.
Protection
Cams from finger size to fist. Nuts too maybe(?). Still no anchors at the ONP- set your own off trees or cracks at the clifftop.