Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Climb a height-dependent reachy start in a seam with large-RP for pro to prevent groundfall to a rest (5.9). Move left below a small triangular roof. Turn this with tiny cams or small nuts in a seam (5.11- crux), painful fingers in the portions of the crack that are wide enough for fingers, and nubs for feet. Steep featured climbing in the shallow open book lies above and is generally 5.9 or 10-.
It starts about 15' right of Rattlesnake Crack in a seam shared with Route 17 then busts left of that route.
Protection
Cams from micro to handsize, especially #00 TCU or equivalent tiny cam. 1 set nuts, including RPs.
No fixed anchor at the top, as with all climbs at the ONP. Build your own anchor using gear (recommended), or tie a static rope off dying trees (bad ecological karma).