(18) Pillars of Hercules (left var.) 

FA:  G. Bell + LA Mountaineers, 1955 Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.7+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 45 feet Views: 178 page views Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Feb 18, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Pillars of Hercules, left variation, 5.7, Potrillo...

Description 

This is route #18 in the LAM on-line guide.
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This left start variation requires one first to mantle onto the left side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving left off this boulder, which involves pulling over an awkward slot by reaching deeply into some wedged flakes. Feet are thin here.
This leads to a stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left crack seems to protect better. This is a great beginner trad lead, once you feel comfortable with the low crux.

Location 

This is the leftmost (westernmost) route on the south wall.

Protection 

The crux is fairly easily protected, but a fall here might land you back on the flat-topped pillar. The top twin cracks eat up medium/large cams.

Popularly top-roped by slinging the large juniper at the top with static line or longer slings, but there's abundant opportunities for gear anchors on top as well.