Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
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BETA PHOTO: Car Camping with the Kids, 5.6, Potrillo Cliffs, W...
At the start, one can traverse into the fairly deep corner from either the face on the left or from the arete on the right (not sure which is easier, but there are feet outside the arete, at least). Then follow the nice hand/fist crack up the corner. Lots of stances along the way.
Some who have TR'd this route argue that the 5.6 is sandbagged, so maybe it is a solid 5.6+. But it is a truly excellent beginner trad lead once you feel comfortable with the opening moves. This is just a guess, but I'd wager that the name of the route derives from the fact that it's not as easy as it looks from afar (anyone got any FA info?).
Location
Far to the left (west/north) end of the crag, second-to-last route from the northern end of the west cliff. Left of the prominent roof. Approach is a scramble either along the base of the cliff or drop down through the brush and back up again.
Protection
Eats up #2-#4 camalots and/or a #11 hex. Sufficient rock at the top for a gear anchor, but not a great one, and the nearest useable trees are a ways back from the rim. LOTS of loose gravel at the top.
Add CommentComments on (02) Car Camping with the Kids
FIRST TRAD LEAD. Description is apt, this is a great route for beginner lead. Lots of stances, straight-forward placements for both active and passive pro. Wife and I did it over and over again without any loss of excitement.
Potrillo Cliffs
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