BETA PHOTO: Starting at the Y-shaped feature at the bottom of ...
Description
Start with thin balancy boulder moves up to a bomber jug and then continue up a two sided overhanging finger crack to a good hand ledge. the crack then turns to a single crack that starts with hands and then into strenuous fingers to a powerful lieback directional switch(crux) to more thin fingers out the top. Mega classic!
Location
This is the obvious overhanging splitter on the south end of the wall.
Protection
A #4 Camalot for the bottom after the boulder moves, a good selection of stoppers and some small to medium Aliens for the rest. A #2 Camalot is good to protect the hand section before the crux. Anchor with gear.
As the beta photo shows, there are now 2 bolts atop the crack for anchors and lowering. Thanks 'Mad Bolter'!
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Aug 13, 2008 rating: 5.11c/d
Sadly, those white spots in the photo are where the previous bolts were chopped and poorly cleaned up by the chopper. I think it's some sort of glue. I intend to color the spots somehow to match the rock better.
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