Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Old New Place
Show routes:
Select route...
(01) God Route (a.k.a. Mike's Route) 
(04) Bee Sting 
(05) Unknown (Roof Climb Left) 
(06) Unknown (Roof Climb Right) 
(07) Unknown 
(08) Tetherball 
(10) Unknown 
(13) Sinewave 
(14) Rattlesnake Crack (a.k.a. Sidewinder) 
(16) Unknown 
(17) Unknown 
(19) Unknown (Zigzag Finger Crack) 
(20) Unknown 
(21) Berserker 
(22) Unknown (ONP Right End) 

(17) Unknown 

5.9

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 113 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Oct 3, 2007


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Route and Area Submission Guidelines MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A height-dependent crux (5.9) with moves from a seam down low is best protected with a large RP nut. Falling here would land you on nasty blocks from 8-10' up, if the gear's no good. This leads to a good hold on a sketchy but solid flake. From here, up the easier pair of hand cracks (5.8, fun) on the right to the top.


Location 

10' right of Rattlesnake Crack is a thin crack, 15' left of the prominent arete.

Route 17 in the ONP photo


Protection 

1 set cams, 1 set nuts to 3". A large RP is useful at the crux about 10' up.

No anchor at top- set your own using dying trees and static rope, or gear among cracks and blocks (recommended for ecological reasons).



Add Comment Comments on (17) Unknown
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jun 5, 2008
rating: 5.9

The start of this route spooks me with unprotected 5.9 moves up 10 feet with a ankle-breaking landing if you come off. That flaring crack 8 feet up doesn't seem to take pro very well or at all. It's always a relief to get a hold of that flake but even still, there are a couple moves to be made before a good .3 or .4 placement.