Rattlesnake Crack is a local 5.11 trad classic. The crux is protected by small gear, which makes it a little scary. Difficulty has been variably rated from 5.11a to 5.11c in different sources.
Head up to the undercling flake (1 height dependent move). Place pro underneath the flake (small nuts or smallest cams; slider nuts/Lowe Balls reportedly best; back 'em up in case you rip 'em out like I did once) and traverse left. A finger jam in a pocket at the corner allows one to place a very small cam (or bomber brass nut) to protect the next move, which is the crux smear with undercling hands, then tenuous gaston/lieback moves on the arete. Some longtime locals believe these crux smear moves have become more polished by traffic and more difficult over the years. Once the crack in the back opens wide enough to accomodate fingers, you're through the crux and a sharp flake to de-pump is quite welcome. From here, most of the rest of the climb is no harder than 5.10. First, a steep section includes liebacking up finger/thin hand crack. The next section has good feet with thin hand crack and a couple places large enough to accomodate a thankful hand jam and rest. This part's cool, because it really feels like you're hanging yourself out over the air. The last section of the climb the crack thins and nearly disappears (but enough spots for nuts for pro), and the rock takes on the pocketed character of White Rock basalt. Here, you'll find small footholds, one- or two-finger pockets, or just lean your shoulder into the corner while working your feet up. One local(?) recently stated that he was skeptical that anyone had led this climb in recent years, but the truth is more climbers than you'd think at WR have been stepping up, as the pro is 'all there' and the line is striking.
A direct start in a seam 10' left of the undercling is reportedly 5.12.
FA/historical info on this route is encouraged. Cam Burn's history in the intro to "Jemez Rock" says Mike Roybal sent a hard crack called S Crack at ONP sometime in the early 1970s.. it is probably either this climb or the crack to its left (now generally called Sine Wave). Possibly Roybal climbed both of them...
Location
You can identify this route from above by looking for the big flat rock at its base. From below, the clean face with the left-trending undercling traverse is apparent. It's also the next climb to the right of Sine Wave, an obvious S-shaped crack.
Protection
Nuts: 1 set, including micros Cams: 1 ea. from tiny to #1 camalot, with doubles of #0.75 camalot and #0.5 camalot recommended.
Still no anchors, it's easy to go find your own using trees + static line or nuts/cams.
It's not a great route for toproping, because falls at the crux leave the climber dangling and unable to reestablish on the rock.
Add PhotoPhotos of (14) Rattlesnake Crack (a.k.a. Sidewinder)
J.O. topping out on Rattlesnake Crack.
Add CommentComments on (14) Rattlesnake Crack (a.k.a. Sidewinder)
One of the coolest routes I've been on and a must do if at the Old New Place. Intriguing and challenging crux to a "thank god" hold; then a very fun crack from there on. Books I've seen rate this as "sandbagged 5.11b/c" for which I concur...with the sandbagged part.
One more thing: while it's true that when toproping this route it is difficult/impossible to get back on at the crux, one just needs to keep swinging and lower a couple feet to the large undercling. Granted, this doesn't allow for a complete hang-dog ascent because to move up you have to pull the moves - but that's why you're on it, right?
Old New Place
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