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Old New Place
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(01) God Route (a.k.a. Mike's Route) 
(04) Bee Sting 
(05) Unknown (Roof Climb Left) 
(06) Unknown (Roof Climb Right) 
(07) Unknown 
(08) Tetherball 
(10) Unknown 
(13) Sinewave 
(14) Rattlesnake Crack (a.k.a. Sidewinder) 
(16) Unknown 
(17) Unknown 
(19) Unknown (Zigzag Finger Crack) 
(20) Unknown 
(21) Berserker 
(22) Unknown (ONP Right End) 

(06) Unknown (Roof Climb Right) 

5.10b

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 99 page views

Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Sep 27, 2007


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Route and Area Submission Guidelines MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A reachy start (could be crux for shorter climbers) directly under the obvious roof on very positive ledges and flakes takes you up to below the roof. Then, move right to the edge/arete (crux?) on small ledges to blind holds around the edge to pass the roof. Easier climbing above takes one to the top.


Location 

When approaching the cliff base as described in the intro to ONP, walk along the base of the cliff for about 50 feet. Look for an obvious roof. The direct start to the route starts directly below the roof. The route is listed as route number 6 on the Old New Place route topo photo.


Protection 

Small to medium nuts and cams down low. Small nuts are nice to protect the moves right around the roof and then a bigger cam (#2 BD) or two above to the top. Gear anchor with .75 and 1 BD cam or tie around tree.