Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
A reachy start (could be crux for shorter climbers) directly under the obvious roof on very positive ledges and flakes takes you up to below the roof. Then, move right to the edge/arete (crux?) on small ledges to blind holds around the edge to pass the roof. Easier climbing above takes one to the top.
Location
When approaching the cliff base as described in the intro to ONP, walk along the base of the cliff for about 50 feet. Look for an obvious roof. The direct start to the route starts directly below the roof. The route is listed as route number 6 on the Old New Place route topo photo.
Protection
Small to medium nuts and cams down low. Small nuts are nice to protect the moves right around the roof and then a bigger cam (#2 BD) or two above to the top. Gear anchor with .75 and 1 BD cam or tie around tree.