Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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Pulling through the crux of Blow Hole and...
Description
Probably the longest climb at the Playground, with sustained quality climbing.
A choice of 3 cracks begins this climb, with the first 15' spitting off many suitors. Climb the right-most crack with finger-locks; or stem between 2 cracks; or move in from the left with hands in a big pod (a 3" piece goes well in this pod and can be placed from the last good stance, 5.10). The next 15' is easier (5.8), follow the finger crack to a unique pocket in the cliff on the left side (the Blow Hole). A second crux is the lieback/mantle moves beginning with the Blow Hole at foot level and then getting your feet up to the big ledge on the left (5.10+). This section is well protected by many options with gear. The rest of the climb follows easier cracks with occasional 5.8/5.9 moves with a greater selection of face holds nearby and a little bit of rubble to the very top. Unlike most climbs at the Playground, this climb continues all the way to the very top of the cliff instead of ending on the prominent horizontal ledge, which is pretty cool.
My personal experience on this climb involves a lot of falls- probably more than any other route. I'm not the only one. Falls near the start can be particularly nasty, and at least one accident has occurred here (have a spotter to keep you off the rocks). Falls at the upper crux are clean and airy but on solid gear.
Location
This climb is located at the far right of the Playground, at the rightmost place with sandy ground (before the boulder gully begins).
Protection
1 set wired nuts, 1 set cams to 3". If you haven't set it in advance, the anchor at the top can be constructed easily with 1-3" cams, or static rope tied to dying trees.
The Playground
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