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Texas 
Tree Climb 
Unnamed (crack left of Blow Hole) 
Unnamed (crack right of Flying A) 
Unnamed (easy black roof slot crack) 
Unnamed (thin flake crack) 
Unrelenting Nines 
Upper Left Roof 
Zander Zigzag 

Upper Left Roof 

5.9

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 75 feet
Views: 124 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Sep 12, 2007


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Description 

The first half of the climb ascends big ledges with positive holds in the right-facing corner. About 1/2 way up, you pass the fixed cam and the climb steepens, which is surmounted by climbing on positive horizontal holds just right of the crack. Continue to nearly below the high roof, which now appears larger than it did below. Thankfully, there is a (scary-looking, but proven solid) flake that allows one to traverse left out from under the roof. Committing to the moves past this flake provides the crux of the route, but soon the big jugs of the horizontal are reached.

This, and Beginner's Hand Jam are the most popular 5.9s at the Playground, I think.


Location 

Toward the right side of the Playground, a prominent row of 3 high roofs way up high bars easy access to the top. Upper Left Roof follows the prominent right-facing corner to the leftmost of these roofs. This climb is the 2nd crack right of the splitter Beginners Hand Jam handcrack. The fixed cam is also a helpful identifying feature.


Protection 

Rack of cams and nuts to 2", and gear is available basically continuously throughout the climb. A fixed cam can be clipped about halfway up this climb, at least, for now. Because there is no fixed anchor at the top, you'll want to save some pieces to build an anchor, if you haven't pre-set one.