Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Tricky moves off the ground are passed by stemming/liebacking to a bomber hold up and right. Cruise straight up easy 5.7-ish climbing of the next 2/3 of the climb to another thin section where the crack narrows to fingers. A 2' foot roofs bar progress to the top, however these are passed by finding hidden undercling/lieback holds and a single big move for the topout jug which you know has to be good (crux). Finding pro at the crux moves is somewhat tricky, however, small nuts or thin finger cams can be placed with creativity and care. It is also possible to escape left 2/3 of the way up and avoid the crux.
Location
The shallow corner 10' left of the splitter crack (Beginner's Hand Jam). The namesake cactus used to reside on the first ledge 12' up, but it looks like it will never grow back.
By Jason Halladay From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 30, 2008 rating: 5.10c
A fun 5.8/9-ish variation on this route is to move well to the left after the initial tricky start moves to a the nice-but-too-short wide finger crack to shallow dihedral.
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