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(14) Manic Crack 

5.11

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 130 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Jul 19, 2007


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George Perkins looking solid on his first clean se...


Description 

A beautiful slightly-overhanging-but-locker finger crack with 'just enough' footholds on the face goes to a bulge where the rock changes texture near the top. Here, a solitary hand jam provides a welcome rest before a couple of thin, cruxy face moves to easier ground. Bear a little to the right up high to reach the anchors.

Originally rated 5.11c/d, but general consensus is that this is a notch or two easier.


Location 

Obvious slightly overhanging finger crack just right of the Banshees bolted arete climb.


Protection 

Rack of cams from a #0.3 camalot to a #2 camalot; some may want extras of #0.4 and #0.5 camalot sizes. Nuts also may be useful, if you can hang on to place 'em.
At the top, angle to the right from the top to the 2-bolt anchor for Manic Nirvana (the sport route to the right).



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George Perkins placing a piece to protect the crux of Manic Crack.

George Perkins placing a piece to protect the crux...


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By Dave Wachter
Mar 13, 2008

Super sweet finger crack with nice feet and unlimited gear placements. Nice hand jam rest halfway up, one size fits all. I agree that the rating is too generous (10+ or 11- more like it). Again! Again!