The best route here at this grade. Perfect hands for ~20ft to a ledge, then small hands to fingers on increasingly thinner ground to the belay ledge.
[Two variations to this route: The Advanced Start (5.10d/5.11a) begins in the next crack right of BHJ and traverses to join it about 15' up. The face just to the left is about 5.11a; climb the first 15' of BHJ to start, then avoid the crack after that.]
Location
Find the perfect hand crack towards the right hand side of the cliff. Belay from the top and walk off (to the right).
Protection
No bolts, no anchors. Standard light trad rack (set of nuts, set of cams).
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Aug 15, 2007
Too bad the anchor bolts got chopped. The climbing and the gear at the top stinks.
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Sep 13, 2007 rating: 5.9
I agree that it's unfortunate that the bolted anchors at the top got chopped, but the pro at the top (after you top out) is very good and very solid--stoppers and #2-#3 Camalots go well.
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