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(18) P.M.S. 
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(22) Unknown (crack just left of Fat Boys Don't Fly) 
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(30) Strong Urge to Fly 

(18) P.M.S. 

5.10a

   

FA: Mike Schillaci ~1989
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 35 feet
Views: 115 page views

Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 22, 2007


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Description 

Fun moves leaning off the arete with a crux section at the last bolt where it thins out. Without using the arete, this is a contrived 5.11a. Be careful not to send the loose gravelly rocks on the ledge below the anchor down on your belayer.


Location 

The sharp-looking arete on a buttress right of the Wailing Banshees-Manic Crack-Lost Nerve face. Stops on a big ledge, which is an obvious landmark.


Protection 

4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (out of sight on big ledge). (at least 2 guidebooks say only 3 bolts, but there are really 4.)



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By Jason Hundhausen
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jul 2, 2007
rating: 5.10a

I think the original route meant for you to climb on the face (11a), but the arete is also very fun! It was retrobolted from 3 to 4 bolts some time ago.