Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Fun moves leaning off the arete with a crux section at the last bolt where it thins out. Without using the arete, this is a contrived 5.11a. Be careful not to send the loose gravelly rocks on the ledge below the anchor down on your belayer.
Location
The sharp-looking arete on a buttress right of the Wailing Banshees-Manic Crack-Lost Nerve face. Stops on a big ledge, which is an obvious landmark.
Protection
4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (out of sight on big ledge). (at least 2 guidebooks say only 3 bolts, but there are really 4.)
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 2, 2007 rating: 5.10a
I think the original route meant for you to climb on the face (11a), but the arete is also very fun! It was retrobolted from 3 to 4 bolts some time ago.