Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
The first bolted arete. Start with feet on the right of the arete, using small pockets and small ledges for handholds. At the 3rd bolt, things get thinner, necessitating use of even smaller crimps on the left-hand face and maybe look for a monopocket just right of the arete. After the thin move, hold on to a decent-but-not-perfect horizontal and grab a funny horn thing to get to the (first) chains. You can continue past the first 2-bolt anchor to another 3-bolt anchor (that of Monsterpiece Theatre and Inflight Movie), but is really only worth it if you want to set a TR on those climbs.
A good climb to collect your frequent flyer miles on while stepping toward the more sustained and more classic arete climbs at BONP such as Flesh-Eating Gnats and Wailing Banshees.
This climb is a good way to reach the anchor for Inflight Movie and Monsterpiece Theatre if you want to toprope those classic 5.12s but aren't quite up for leading them.
Location
First bolted route you come to at Below the Old (i.e., the southernmost bolted route there).
Protection
3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (or continue to another (3 bolt) anchor, shared with Monsterpiece Theatre and Inflight Movie).
By Jason Hundhausen From: Los Alamos, NM Apr 15, 2008 rating: 5.10d
I agree with Michael - pretty stiff for 10c. May be easier if you have smaller fingers that will fit in the pockets below the 3rd bolt. Fun climb overall though.
Below The Old New Place
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