Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This excellent route would be 4 stars if it were a bit longer. With excellent rock, great holds, and fun moves this one is a must do. Its given 12b in the Samet guide, and felt a bit harder than the other 12a's here (but it was the last route of the day, so who knows)
Begin by scrambling up the ledge to the right of the route's base. Good holds lead to the first bolt and a long reach to a really good crimp to get established on the wall. Head up the prow with long reaches. Just below the 3rd bolt cop a dubious rest and clip with some difficulty. Move up to two really poor pockets that look much better from below, hike up your feet and soar for the obvious pocket. Its possible to do this move statically, but kinda defeats the purpose. Above the dyno the route slabs out but the holds diminish as well, and you never really get that finishing jug you're hoping for. An awkward sequence leads into the flaring dihedral and some dirty jugs. Clipping the anchor can be a bit difficult. Your best bet is to climb high and clip low.
Location
Far right end of BTONP. 3rd bolted route from the right.
Below The Old New Place
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