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Description
In my opinion, the best of the 12a's at BTONP. Not as long as some, but by far the most sustained. It's on from the first bolt to the anchor.
Scramble up the ledge to begin. You may want a piece of gear to start, or haul your stick clip up to the ledge to clip the first bolt, or solo up the crack 2 moves to clip the bolt. Head straight up on awesome sculpted pockets and thin crimps. Long sequential reaches on incut but small holds lead up the ever steepening wall. Near the top the holds dwindle and the movement becomes more desparate. Stay left until its possible to snag the top edge of the cliff, then traverse right two feet to the chain anchor.
Obviously the dihedral crack is 'off', but I used it to get to the first bolt, and it seems, based on the chalk, that everyone else does the same.
Location
On the wall left of the Wailing Banshees arete.
Protection
4 bolts, 2 BA shared with Wailing Banshees. May want a hand-sized piece at the start.
Add CommentComments on Adam Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm)
The proximity to the classic crack to the left makes this climb a bit contrived and detracts at least one-star. Can't argue with the quality of the climbing though.
An interesting and challenging climb for sure, but I wouldn't call it classic. After clambering onto the starting shelf, you get 3 bolts of excellent sustained 5.11 - sequency, but mostly sinker holds with a couple of decent shakes. From there it's a bolt and a half of difficult climbing that is essentially one long boulder problem with a clip in the middle - long reaches between small pockets and edges, technical feet, and finally a couple of big or desperately thin moves off crappy holds to the lip by the anchors. You almost want to throw a heel up and mantle for a top-out finish. Felt like solid 5.12 (V3/V4) up top to me, at least if you follow the bolt line (what's up with the downgrade in your book, Mark B?). I loved the way the progression of climbing worked here: float through the 5.11 section expending the least energy possible, then shift gears into a moderate but sustained boulder problem with the pump clock ticking. The crack and arete were not in the logical progression of the climb (or at least not past the 1st bolt, which isn't the crux), so I wouldn't call the line contrived. I'd certainly do it again.
A green or purple camalot would probably protect against a fall going for the first bolt (not likely, but you wouldn't want to tumble down off the starting platform).
Below The Old New Place
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