Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
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Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
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Description
One of the longer BTONP routes, with no dirt-covered rock. This route begins right on the E face of the double-arete buttress that juts out into the trail. This route has been described as both funky and weird in various guidebooks, but I'm not sure why. The crux (~5th bolt) is not especially obvious, but there's no rose move, overhead heel hooking, figure 4's or even figure 9's.
A short boulder problem gains the excellent face. 11- moves lead up, and noticably left. Around the 4th bolt you may find yourself on the left arete, closer to SA's bolts than this route's. You should be on the right arete at this point, and may need to traverse straight right to achieve this. A good rest from a triangular hold right on the prow sets you up for the sequential, 4-move crux. A few improving edges lead to big jugs and a casual, runout stroll to the chains.
Below The Old New Place
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