Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Rob Rhine on Thorazine Dream during a Meltdown com...
Description
Step up to the small roof and clip the first bolt. Pull the roof with a mantle-type move to really get going. Then enjoy thin face climbing on low-angle rock past a couple more bolts to a nice no-hands rest ledge. Then gun it through the steep, thin face climbing, using a nice mono pocket along the way, past three more bolts to the anchors. Definitely a sequence to it.
Location
This is the right-most route on the main wall. Shown as route number 29 on the Overlook route topo photo.
Protection
Used to be just two bolts then a small gear placements in a horizontal crack before the steep, bolted face with three more bolts to a bolted anchor with chains. However, sometime in the past few years (2005-2007?) a third bolt near the horizontal crack was placed by an unknown driller.
Just curious if whoever retrobolted this climb bothered to ask the first ascentionist for permission? Funny, it was a safe lead before retrobolting since the horizontal seam took gear just fine! Next time I see Brian I'll inquiry as to any solicitation for permission. If not, that bolt ought to come out!
South/East side
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