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(07.5) R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) 
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(07.5) R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) 

5.7

   

FA: Allison Fritz & Jason Halladay, August 2008
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.7 [details]
Length: 40 feet
Views: 126 page views

Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Aug 7, 2008


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Climbing through the thinnest part of the route.


Description 

R.O.U.S. is a clean face route on really good rock with a bit of thin face climbing before a small roof move near the top. Make some easy scrambling moves up six feet to a comfy stance and the first bolt. Face climb on small holds through the crux of the route between bolts 2 and 3 using small pockets and edges past a couple more bolts up to a small ledge and small roof. It is here, under the roof, that R.O.U.S.es may be hiding. Move quickly! The well-protected mini-roof move is another crux to a super large ledge and the anchor.

Rodents Of Unusual Size (ROUS) reside in the Fire Swamp and attacked Princess Buttercup and her companion Westley when they bravely entered the Fire Swamp. If you're not familiar with R.O.U.S.es watch a short segment from the movie The Princess Bride. At about 6:13 minutes into the segment the R.O.U.S.es appear.


Location 

This route ascends the clean face to the right of Princess Buttercup.


Protection 

A generously protected route that would make for a good first sport lead. 6 bolts to a a two-bolt anchor equipped with carabiners. The left, steel carabiner is a bit sticky on the gate so be sure it closes. (I didn't notice this until after I installed it.)



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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 11, 2008
rating: 5.7

Fun route up small edges and pockets. Very well protected, which is great for the more novice leaders (like myself) that usually make Gallow's Edge their stomping grounds. For me the crux might have been the roof but its a close race between that and some of the thin face moves down lower.

By scotthsu
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.7

Fun climb. Thanks Jason and Allison for putting up the line! I did in fact encounter a ROUS, which I thought increased the difficulty of the route to at least 5.7+.