(01) God Route (a.k.a. Mike's Route) 

FA:  Mike Roybal, early 1970s Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.11a/b [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 58 page views Submitted By: George Perkins on Jun 3, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

God Route is really a series of interconnected boulder problems, but what it lacks in continuousness it makes up through unique movement.

Escape the cave with a boulder problem heelhook/mantle move with decent cams for pro down low or a horizontal TCU above and reach a good rest.

Place microcams and/or small nuts to protect the crux, a steep awkward lieback move or two to a thank-god flake. Fight the pump to get another cam in, and get another rest below a tough-looking offwidth.

The offwidth isn't as bad as it looks. A #4 camalot fits near the bottom of it, or with a bigger cam (#5) you can place it higher. Once you commit to putting your knee in the crack, you've got it.

Location 

God Route begins in the back of the obvious cave behind the giant boulder at the left side of ONP.
It is climb #1 in the beta photo.

Protection 

2 ea. TCUs or other tiny cams.
1 ea. cams of larger sizes up to a #2 camalot.
1 set nuts.
Either a #4 or #5 camalot or equivalent big cam is nice, but maybe not essential.

A double length runner around a column at the top makes for a good anchor. Supplement this with some of your own gear in cracks, or anchor off dying trees.