(02) Car Camping with the Kids 

FA:  ? Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.7 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 45 feet Views: 207 page views Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Feb 18, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Car Camping with the Kids, 5.6, Potrillo Cliffs, W...

Description 

This is route #2 in the LAM on-line guide.

At the start, one can traverse into the fairly deep corner from either the face on the left or from the arete on the right (not sure which is easier, but there are feet outside the arete, at least). Then follow the nice hand/fist crack up the corner. Lots of stances along the way.

Some who have TR'd this route argue that the 5.6 is sandbagged, so maybe it is a solid 5.6+. But it is a truly excellent beginner trad lead once you feel comfortable with the opening moves. This is just a guess, but I'd wager that the name of the route derives from the fact that it's not as easy as it looks from afar (anyone got any FA info?).

Location 

Far to the left (west/north) end of the crag, second-to-last route from the northern end of the west cliff. Left of the prominent roof.
Approach is a scramble either along the base of the cliff or drop down through the brush and back up again.

Protection 

Eats up #2-#4 camalots and/or a #11 hex.
Sufficient rock at the top for a gear anchor, but not a great one, and the nearest useable trees are a ways back from the rim. LOTS of loose gravel at the top.