(05) Unknown (Roof Climb Left) 

FA:  ?? Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.9+ [details] Length:  1 pitch, 60 feet Views: 53 page views Submitted By: George Perkins on May 21, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

A reachy start, under the obvious roof, shared with the next climb to the right is probably the crux for those who aren't really tall. Continue up liebacking finger cracks with enough positive ledges every 10' to keep things from getting too tough, to about 10' below the roof, traverse left, and more fun finger crack sections with featured face leads your way to the top.

This is now my favorite of the 5.9/5.10s at this cliff, with high quality interesting well-protected climbing the whole way.

Location 

When approaching the cliff base as described in the intro to ONP, walk along the base of the cliff for about 50 feet. Look for an obvious roof. The direct start to the route starts directly below the roof. The route is listed as route number 5 on the Old New Place route topo photo.

The line shown in Jemez Rock is a little to the right of where you want to be.

Protection 

1 set nuts, 1 set cams to 2".
Save some pro for an anchor at the top, or tie off dying trees.