Unnamed, left face 

FA:  Type:  Trad, TR Consensus:  5.6 [details] Length:  1 pitch, 40 feet Views: 77 page views Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Mar 3, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Unnamed face, left, 5.6, Tortilla Flats, White Roc...

Description 

A fine, short face climb, good for beginner TR's or even a starter trad leader. Wander up the lefthand half of the easy slab face, using pockets, horizontal seams, and little ledges that are all reminiscent of Princess Buttercup.

The on-line guide's topo shows this line as a "5.6 friction" route. Beverly (2006:204) notes this climb as #2, one of a "pair of friction slab climbs." Neither source provides a photo of the route.

Location 

One of the the northernmost (leftmost) climbs at the cliff, on the easy slab face to the left of the Tortilla Slab. This line ascends the left half of the face.
Although the online guide's topo implies that one could toprope both the right and left climbs from a single toprope anchor in the center of the face, that would result in your rope draping over a nice fat cliff-dwelling cactus, with spiny results. Probably better to TR the L and R faces separately.

Protection 

Actually decent placements are available for leading this unbolted face. Use small nuts (sometimes in opposition) in the horizontal seams. Placements are sometimes kind of fiddly to get in, but good stances allow fiddling-around time. Gear or slung boulders will work at the top (or even sling trees for a TR anchor).