Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Choose from various starts: Boy Scout (5.8), Less-Hard Start (5.9), Hard Start (5.11), Inside Dihedral (5.9) to exit the cave. Soon you'll reach a big ledge that ramps up to the left (Broadway ledge). The Notch goes straight up the finger crack from the middle of Broadway ledge. You can get just enough pro in to keep it reasonable, especially a bigger cam under an overlap midway up. Committing to the start (off Broadway ledge) may be the toughest part mentally, or keeping your composure to punch it to the top on the pocketed section where the crack pinches down.
A tougher lead than most other 5.10s at the Y.
Location
The Notch takes a finish up the 2nd steep crack to the right of Open Book. A few options exist for the start from the obvious cave on the north side of the Y (see topo).
Protection
1 set cams to 3", 1 set nuts. Save some gear for an anchor, or use static rope off dying trees.
North Wall of the Y
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