Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Middle Mother is the middle of the 3 cracks. Climb choss to a horn. Tricky finger crack section next is the crux, but is very well protected with cams. Above, the wall steepens, but the crack widens so you get a few handjams which provide rests and the horizontal ledges provide a few feet. Stay strong for the last pumpy finish, which isn't really that difficult.
A good 5.10 at the Y.
Location
The 3 "Mothers" climbs are about 40' right of Beastie Crack on the north wall of the 'Y', on a clean steep section of rock. It is just a little bit before the waterfall starts.
Protection
1 set cams from fingers to 3"; nuts. Save some gear to build an anchor at the top- slinging blocks with long runners/cordelette may be an option, or static line off dying trees.
North Wall of the Y
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