Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
This climb has a nice slick start consisting of a thin finger crack and some varnished foot placements that ascend leftward to a good underclinging finger crack which offers good gear placements to protect the crux moves. Then grab the sharp edge of a jugular shelf that is heel hooked and mantled to a bolt with no hanger, use a nut that can be a stopper cinched onto the bolt for pro, or better yet, use a bolt hanger and bring a nut that fits a 3/8 stud bolt. Don't forget to clean the hanger when you are done as it will most likely get stripped. After protecting above the cavemantle grab some round jugs to gain access into the upper handcrack portion of the climb which gobbles gear all the way to the top.
Location
This route is the furthest developed obvious crack climb to the east on the South Wall across the river from the North Wall. It is located just to the right of a hangerless 5.12 sport route that probably never gets climbed. Walk down about 100 yards to the west. A couple 5th class moves are required on this down climb
Protection
Stoppers, 1 set if Aliens, Doubles of Camalots from #1 to #4, and trad runners. Belay from live trees and supplement with gear. If top roping trail a long static line for a good TR set.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM May 8, 2008 rating: 5.10c
This climb protects well at its crux with a #4 cam placed horizontally just above the mantle shelf, on the right side. I found no need to mess with the hangerless bolts from the climb that once existed to the left of this climb.
Y, The
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