Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Traverse in, moving left from the arete just left of Open Book, using good hand traverse holds. [A direct start in the thin crack is harder and discouraged because it is very close to the 'snake' petroglyph.] Soon you'll reach the first overhang, which is pretty easy. The second overhang you pass through is harder- an A shaped slot with awkward mantle move or big reach to a wide crack to the left with minimal feet. Overhang #3 is just before the topout. Don't be too pumped to pull the mantle move.
Location
This climb is the next crack left of Open Book (the obvious dihedral) on the north side.
Protection
1 set cams to 4". Some wired nuts. A cordelette or long piece of webbing is useful for the anchor.