Welcome to the New Mexico section of Mountain Project!
The contributions that are made to this site are greatly appreciated; this site is made up of an awesome community of users that make the site what it is.
Although there is very little information regarding “rules” for submitting climbing areas and routes to this site, the New Mexico Administers all agree that the following guidelines may be helpful to truly make this site go “Beyond the Guidebook”.
1) Don’t be a jerk (this one states the obvious). 2) Route and area submissions should truly be helpful to those out climbing. Before posting, you should have some first hand experience actually climbing the route. This always results in a much more useful description. 3) Please, please, please… Don’t copy route descriptions directly out of guidebooks, online publications, etc. This is plagiarism! Remember, BEYOND the guidebook! 4) Please use the spell check and make an effort to use correct grammar.
Again, the Mountainproject community truly appreciates the efforts taken to make good route descriptions. If you feel that a route or area description is not up to standard, a brief email to one of the area admins for suggestions on improvement will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for taking the time to make the New Mexico section of Mountain Project quality! We look forward to seeing you out there!
Description
Far left side of the 45deg boulder, right of that slab route no one seems to know the name of. Basically a very cool V7 boulder problem to a 5.11 slab to the chains. A truly proud ascent would be to (highball) boulder it which would require plenty of pads and spotters...and confidence
Protection
bolts, preclip the first 2 so you don't end up in the stream
I bolted this route and Ed Strang made the first ascent, followed by Jean DeLataillade, and then Paul May all in the same day. It took me a few more months to beat it into submission. Nathaniel Walker later discovered that a good alternate finish (instead of climbing thin the slab after the crux) is to traverse to the right and finish on BeastMaster.
We all thought this route seemed like 13c at the time. 12d seems a bit ridiculous -- it's a pretty hard boulder problem.
consensus 12d, ha ha... hilarious. more like solid 13b.
By George Perkins Administrator From: Los Alamos, NM Jul 28, 2008
"Established rating" changed to that recommended by longtime Dungeon developers Luke Laeser and Jean DeLataillade and the two area guidebooks so as to make comparison with other routes at the Dungeon more meaningful.